Quote:
Originally Posted by porsche4life
Looking at it I can probably be in all the components under 3...
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Unless you have to buy a new head unit. The only way around that is if the factory unit has RCA outs (I'd be surprised if it did). You
could go line-level off of the factory deck by splicing into the speaker wiring harness. However, that would certainly not be the optimum solution, and wouldn't maintain the same level of audio quality.
Quote:
Originally Posted by porsche4life
I'll watch for that kit, but I would also like my original questions answered.
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Regarding the ohm-load, I think Jeremy has it half right. A bridged stereo amp does not "see" a reduced Ω load. The Ω load is determined by the coil resistance of each driver, the number of drivers, and the method of wiring (parallel or series).
If you want to go with a single-driver set-up, buy the 4Ω version. Then you can by a mono amp, or a stereo amp that is bridgeable. If you want to go with a 2-driver set-up, you can grab the 8Ω versions and run them in parallel. That would present the same 4Ω load to a mono (or bridged stereo) amp. I would not buy two drivers and run them off of separate channels (stereo) unless you are willing to build separate enclosures for each (don't put stereo subs in the same box).
The third option would be to get two 4Ω versions and run them in parallel giving you a 2Ω load to the amp. Then you buy a better amp that is high-current capable and stable (stereo or bridged) down to 2Ω. There are plenty out there even stable down to 1Ω (the old Orion HCCA's come to mind).
That would give you the best bang for your buck IMO.