[Niceboxer]

BTW, I forgot to mention that I did get a new battery to no avail before replacing the ECU. Don't think the old battery was bad.

The only reason I suspect the Auto-Comm input lead is that I found the jack resting on the exhaust middle pipe under the seat, with the jack housing melted to where the wiring pins were exposed. And the Auto-Comm was hard wired to the bike's electrical. But I fully understand the skepticism in defense of the Auto-Comm. Not sure where the + signal would have come from (since the unit was not in use at the time) to create a short.

Regarding the FIM chip, I don't think it was defective, since it ran fine for 10's of thousands of miles. It was either the weak link when there was a short/spike, or maybe it just reached the end of it's life. I have to assume that a microchip has a limited lifespan, particularly in a high-vibration environment. And that an FIM chip is not the same as a Bosch (or whoever makes the chips for them).

Truth be told, I did not put the FIM chip in the new ECU to see if it was the chip or the old ECU that was bad. Didn't want to find out that it was a bad chip that fried the board. All I know is that new ECU with stock chip works fine.

I'll keep en eye out for other possible shorts, though.

Thanks all.

TG