[John W.]

Brake flush procedure using power bleeder

I have learned a lot from this forum (thanks everyone for the great advise) and would like to give something back. After searching and reading a number of posts, I did a brake flush for the first time and decided to write up a detailed procedure for someone else new at this.

What’s needed - Motive power bleeder (black label one has a nice metal cap and is worth the extra money – some on this site have made their own pressure system – you can search for that), hose for bleeder valve to drain bottle (or get Motive catch bottle kit), 1 liter brake fluid - works well to switch between ATE gold and blue, 9 mm wrench for bleeder valve, jack, jack stand and wheel lug wrench.

You must clamp the vent line. When looking at the reservoir from the front of the car, a vent line is at the top (nearly cap level) and exits to the right (driver side). This must be clamped shut or you’ll have fluid on the floor and no pressure in the system. I tried vise grips with a cloth around the hose to protect it and it still leaked – I then used a small C-clamp which worked great.

Remove the reservoir cap and siphon out most of the old fluid from the reservoir – the wife’s turkey baster works well – be sure to get her a new one or sleep on the couch.

Connect the Motive power bleeder or similar system to the reservoir and pressurize to 10 - 15 psi. to check your connections for holding pressure. If you have a leak - check the cap, hose clamp and all fittings.

When it’s holding pressure - release the pressure at the pump not at the reservoir – you don’t want fluid flying out.

Top off the reservoir with fresh brake fluid and reconnect the Motive.

Break loose the wheel lugs on all four wheels or plan on turning the two front tires to get access to the bleeder valves.

Jack up the right rear, lower onto a jack stand and remove the wheel.

While you have access, check your brake pads minimum thickness is .08”.

Pressurize the Motive system – I didn’t add fluid to the Motive – makes cleanup easy but you MUST check the reservoir frequently and add fluid to it a number of times. I checked it after each wheel. Be sure to always release pressure at the pump not at the reservoir.

Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect hose to the valve and put the other end in your catch bottle. Open bleeder valve slightly (mine used a 9mm wrench) and carefully watch until the new fluid starts to come out and no bubbles. Close valve snug but not too tight. Remove hose and replace dust cap. The blue fluid stains the system and it’s a little hard to see when the gold starts coming out.

Replace the wheel and repeat the process moving from right rear to left rear to right front and left front.

Some people suggest going around the car again, I just redid the right rear wheel and ended up with a nice hard pedal.

Be sure to tighten all wheel lug nuts - Torque to 96 ft.lbs. = 130 NM

Be sure to top off the reservoir with brake fluid and replace the cap.