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Definitely don't want to do a shuttle. I would like to go hangout in the canyon and do a couple day hikes then back out on a different trail. Maybe a semi loop, but not an out and back.
I thought the same thing about camping, that it wouldn't be allowed, but it is. You can pick your spot in certain areas. Of the 45 million people who visit the canyon each year, less than 1% backpack and camp, so I think we should be able to find a good camping spot somewhere. By my calculations, that would be 3000 people backpack camping on any give day, counting half the days in the year. That's still a lot! Most of those must be in the big campgrounds though.
I think 4 days is going to be enough time, as 3 wouldn't allow enough to really soak it in.
I've got a really good book on the canyon by Colin Fletcher that I'm just getting into. He hike the entire canyon and wrote a book on it, so it's giving great details and such.
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