[ossiblue]

Originally Posted by SickIan

Yes i have became very confused. I believe the lack of ground i found at the FP was a bad connection at the brn/blk wire in the engine compartment. I just removed the temporary ground i made to the FP and it seems to be working fiine.Yes i tested the afs by lifting the arm and it hums like normal. I can hear it hum when cranking the engine. The car still doesnt start unless i remove the FP relay. It almost seems as if it is flooding the car. It starts and runs for a few seconds when i pull the relay out, burns up what fuel it has, then dies.

I read you initial post last night about the car running without the relay and couldn't figure out how that was possible but your latest post explains it. When you lift the arm in the intake with the ignition on and relay in, you will start the fuel pump and also cause the injectors to spray fuel. Removing the relay and trying to start the car would cause the existing fuel to burn.

Now, to get this all straight.

1. You can hear the fuel pump running (by lifting the lever in the intake) with the ignition on, correct?

2. You can hear the fuel pump running when the engine is cranking during the start cycle, correct?

3. After you've pumped fuel into the engine via lifting the lever in the intake with ignition on, pulling the relay will allow the engine to run until the fuel is burned, correct?

4. Once the engine has burned all the fuel, the engine will not start/run with the relay replaced, correct?

If all the above are correct, your problem may be with your cold start injector/thermal switch and, possibly, check valve or fuel accumulator. The cold start injector shoots raw fuel into the intake when the starter is cranking causing an initial firing of the engine. If the injector is faulty, or the thermal switch which controls it is faulty, the engine will likely not start regardless of the fuel pump unless you crank it over for a considerable time which risks flooding. If the injector is not working, no raw fuel to get a cold engine going (engine flooding due to over cranking.) If the injector is leaking or continually spraying fuel, the engine will flood rapidly.

What you did when you tested the system by lifting the lever is manually inject fuel into the engine, like a cold start injector. When you tried to start the engine, it was already saturated with fuel, and continued cranking simply flooded it more. When you removed the relay, the fuel pump ceased to run and the engine was able to ignite the existing fuel and run, until it had burned away, because neither the cold start injector nor the regular injectors were getting fuel.

It sounds like all components of the relay/pump are now correct, and your engine should run once the cold start circuit is checked out (which includes a couple of other components related to air intake, but that's for later.)

What I would suggest also is a testing of you fuel pressures and residual pressure, using a fuel gauge set. If the system isn't holding pressure after the pump has been running, that's and indication of a faulty check valve or leaking fuel accumulator.

The only other possibility I can think of, and it's remote, is that somehow when the relay is replaced, you lose ignition spark. I don't see how that could happen, but you may wish to do a quick check for spark with the relay in--you know it's there when the relay is removed as the engine will run, briefly.