You are correct on the sights - drift the rear left to move point of impact left and vis versa. Try not to adjust the front - hopefully it can stay centered in the dovetail. If you do have to move it, adjustments are opposite that of the rear sight - i.e., to move point of impact left, drift it right.
Recoil is a problem with these, isn't it?
I swear my Marlin '95 hurts more than my Ruger # 1 in .458 with full power loads. Weight and stock design are the culprits.
Anyway, in the face of that recoil, relatively low velocity (= barrel time), and two piece stock design, the single most important thing to do is to hang onto the damn thing. Sounds obvious, but I'm talking
both hands - grab that forearm just like you will when shooting in the field. We don't shoot these like single piece stocked bolt or semi auto rifles, with one hand on the grip and the other back under the toe of the stock, squeezing a sandbag for elevation.
Always hold that forearm - it's the only way to ensure consistent elevation. Even in the field, when resting it over a fencepost, stump, rock, backpack, whatever -
grab that forearm. The idea is to have you intervening between it and any rest. That way you can use any rest, and maintain consistent elevation. This is very important on these rifles.
That obiously rules out anything like the Caldwell "Lead Sled" or any other such recoil absorbing/reducing contivances at the range. On these rifles, anything like that
will change elevation. So, in other words - you just gotta suck it up and shoot it. No fun off the bench, but it has to be done. Keep some paper towels handy to wipe the snot, slobber, and earwax off the stock. Put a chin strap on your favorite cap, or staple it to your head. A strap around your head on the shooting glasses is a good idea, too. Otherwise, both are left hovering in front of your head every time you light one off...