Well Fellas,
I did it, I know I was supposed to do a side by side but it was an obvious improvement.
Daniel Stern's Product Line Up:
H1 55Watts +50's by NARVA (lo-beams)
Reverse Lights 35Watts (vs OEM 21Watts)
Side Marker Lights 6Watts (vs OEM 4Watts)
3rd Brake Light (CHSML) Hella MATRIX 5237 (LED, OEM Style)
Daniels Stern's Recommendations, He does not sell these:
Brake Lights HONDA OEM 3496 8Watts NICKLE PLATED BASE (vs OEM 5Watts)
Turn Signals HONDA OEM 3497 8Watts NICKEL PLATED BASE (vs OEM 5Watts)
Background on my Car:
I had Sylvania Silver Stars and fell for the their marketing BS, supposed 4000K 35% Brighter. It was brighter than standard H1's and had a blueish tint on the bulb.
According to Daniel Stern, Sylvania's claims are IMPOSSIBLE with blue tint on the bulb which in short blocks light emitted by the filament.
His H1's made by a German company NARVA was clear like an ordinary H1, it is Much BRIGHTER and Filled the light pattern more completely without for lack of a better term DEAD SPOTS. The LIGHT is NATURAL incandescent in color not simulated HID color.
I moved my expensive POS Sylvania's to the Hi-beams.
Here are some bad pictures but I hope you get the idea:
Narva H1's 55W =+50
Side Markers 6W & Signals 8W:
Reverse Lights 35W:
Brake Lights 8W & HELLA 3rd Brake Light:
Converted my Fog's to DRL's LED's by SuperBrightLEDs:
Not too much fog in the SoBay SoCal
The Standard H3's tend to melt the housing if left on too long as DRL's
I was worried about the higher wattage but according to Daniel Stern, the wattage is so slight it will not effect the housing . An email quote from Daniel Stern regarding the higher wattage of the mods:
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Daniel Stern
"21 watt" is nominal at 12.0v; 35w is at 12.8v where the "21w" bulb runs at 27w
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So far so GOOD,
Jim