With the engine installed, the task of indexing the rear torsion bars for correct camber began. There is not a ride-height adjustment per se, the height is completely determined by the camber since it has a swing axle suspension. I needed to get it dialed-in before assembling the rest of brakes/shocks/etc. and taking car in for alignment or there would be hundreds of dollars in additional labor for the alignment shop to tear it all apart and move T-bars. The factory camber spec is zero degrees w/ a small tolerance. This makes sense because the camber changes as the spring plate/T-bar is compressed, going negative on the compressed side in a corner. Also, when passengers get in the car, it will squat (negative) slightly. The rear toe-in is also zero or very close and it changes as well when suspension is compressed. (Toes-in on compressed side).
I used a straight edge filed down to perfectly fit in rim and a level to determine zero camber. (Level). Every time an adjustment was made, we had to re-assemble the rear suspension and roll car back and forth to settle suspension, then measure. I wish I could tell you that I'm so good, (or lucky), that I got it on the first or second try but I can't.
I suppose if you worked on this part of the car all the time as a vocation, you would know exactly how many degrees on the spring plate = given degrees of camber. I did not, so many small adjustments were made before getting it right. I also had to get the toe close enough to drive car to alignment shop, (plus break-in the new rings and motor), that is a little easier since no major disassembly is required. Still, the axle does not just move easily along the spring plate once the bolts are loosened. The two parts are extremely spring-loaded to each other and it's tricky.
Here are some pics including the beginning of my hillbilly alignment rack using parallel 2x4s next to car.
