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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,276
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Ronnie - my point exactly. Thank you.
All the books show a picture (some of these pictures I am sure are simply copied from some other book) of a box end wrench on the nut, and a screw driver in the slot on the screw.
To be sure, after one had gotten the nut "tight enough," I suppose you could put a torque wrench with a socket over everything, and give it the final twist to some set value. Then check the clearance one final time, and cross fingers it hadn't tightened up.
Nuts sold as jam nuts are typically reduced height. This suggests to me that the engineers who can figure such things out have determined that for jam nut purposes (keeping another fastener from loosening) a full depth nut is not needed. This does support the point that less torque would be appropriate. The Maryland Metric table did not include jam nuts, and I should have noticed that.
Otherwise you are reduced to using a crowsfoot, with an extension for clearance.
Tain't worth it, Macgee.
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