Quote:
Originally Posted by romad
All domestic refrigs use 134a have for over 15 years. R12 was used before about 1992. R22 and R11 are used in air conditiors and dehum.
John, I can only represent my experience, I have worked on hundreds of these systems. These compressors hold 240ml of ester oil, if you just wiped off a little on the tubes and evap tray, you have not lost any significant amount of oil. At this point given the other two options this is a easy decision.
The only concern would be the water contamination issue and the nature of this failure doesn't make this much of a concern. I would fix the corroded line, add the low side service valve( adding a high side service valve would help the pull down, but is not necessary), insure good, leak free solder joints. DON'T USE SOFT SOLDER, USE SILVFLOSS OR SILVER SOLDER. Hook the system up to a good two stage vac pump. Let it pull down for a good 8 to 12 hours, longer the better. Every few hours knock on or shake the compressor, helps remove trap refrigerant and water. After the pull down add the required 134a refrigerant ( at the low side valve with the unit running), the correct amount will be listed on the model tag in the RC. If you can't find the amount add 5.5 oz.
Of course you probably do not have this equipment, but this is what any service guy can do technically, that is if he wants to .... Good luck.
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Good advice....
An occasional sweep with dry nitrogen to atmospheric pressure will help bring some moisture out. A couple of changes of vacuum pump oil will show moisture in the oil if there was moisture in the system.
Once wet pololester oil, will not release moisture contained in it but like one of the others here mentioned it would be unlikely that water would have gotten in.