[SoCal Driver]

Poltergeist!

It's haunted!!!

Or...

The "heat" comes from a cable and sheath to a single valve between the engine and the fire wall. The plastic frame behind the dash sliders breaks and lets the sheath and cable move. The way it breaks lets you turn the heat on but not off. The plastic frame is a pain to replace and runs about $30. Sometimes the valve itself will not seat. The seals inside seem to wear out.

With a helper look at the arm on the valve and have them move the heat slider back and forth. If it stays in one location it's plastic frame time.

As to electric windows; if a switch jams in the up or down position there is no overload breaker to stop the motor from running just a fuse. In many cases were the window fuse has blown a few times a higher rating is substituted. This will let the wires heat up and act like a bathroom heater. Not good.

I would replace all the switches and take a hard look behind the fuse block (you have to pull it down to look).

The relay that controls the turn signals should not be dependent on a light load to determine it's cycling. One bulb or twenty the blink rate is determined by the circuit in the relay. Might have had a substitution made on the relay to a load dependent one. heaven knows it's possible. Or the circuit is shot -- this should have disabled the relay.