[TurboKraft]

Originally Posted by Spenny_b

As part of the preparation, I rolling-roaded the car a few weeks back to "baseline" the engine. Despite it feeling far quicker than the numbers suggest (to me at least), it's pushing more-or-less stock numbers at 320.1fwhp with stock boost.

Flywheel horsepower or rear wheel horsepower? Is this a full H&S system with headers, or just a muffler?

Originally Posted by Spenny_b

- Drop the engine and run a leakdown and compression test. The engine looks healthy according to the numbers on the RR, but just to make sure.
- If it's OK, then remove the CIS components and replace with the kit I need for EFI.

This is critical. Obviously, converting to EFI will not remedy any underlying engine troubles. Leakdown numbers on a cold engine should all be <6%, and compression valves should be even, +/-5psi.

Originally Posted by Spenny_b

- I may well look to replace the stock K27. This is not a track car in any way, so I'm not after mega boost at lofty revs, I'd far rather have a usable quick spooling engine that will demolish Britains finest tarmac without having to redline all the time. I'm also thinking single turbo to keep it relatively simple, although should it be a given that twin scroll is the way we roll these days?...with suitable mods to the turbo mating flange, of course.

Very sensible approach for the street. If twin scroll, that only helps response even more. I posted a dyno on another thread about a CIS 3.3L 930 with a GT35R that we converted to twin scroll, and his gains at 3,000rpm were just incredible. Power was all done by 6,000rpm, so no need to rev it high and reinforce the engine's bottom end with built rods, etc (unless taking it apart anyway).
If you have headers, they can be converted to twin scroll (ex: Tom's Odyssey 930), and you'll use 2 small wastegates.

Originally Posted by Spenny_b

- The engine management I'm planning on using is MBE

We have heard this was very good from another client in the UK, nice drivability. It will definitely work with any conversion hardware (hardware is universal, accepts any engine management system).

Originally Posted by Spenny_b

If all the tests go well, I'll probably leave a top-end or full rebuild for another time.
If all doesn't go so well with leakdowns, then I'll need to decide how far I go with a rebuild. If I'm in that situation, I'll probably be aiming for *about* 400-450rwhp, so will then look at cams and head porting. Depending on P&C condition, may well look to replace with a capacity increase set....and maybe shuffle-pinning...and boat tailing...and twin plugging...and head studs/conrod bolts...and....(see where this is going?!)

Going into the engine is a separate project. The MBE should be flexible to accomodate any future modifications. Keeping this in mind, you can pre-wire any future functions into the harness in the beginning (then you never have to get into the harness again).
With stock 32mm port heads and stock 930/965 cams, expect power to max around 420 at the wheels (about 470hp flywheel).

Originally Posted by Spenny_b

1) With my car being a 964, am I right in thinking that if I want to retain the OE intake manifold, this would work better than for the guys doing 930 conversions, which have less than optimal manifolds? In other words, perhaps not such a compelling need to upgrade to the Carrera intake manifold?
1a) If so, then I could swap out the stock CIS injector blocks for those that Chris sells?
1b) ....or would I still be best to go for Carrera intake manifold plus Chris's adapters to mate 42mm > 32mm? This would then mean that any future porting work to the heads could be catered for by swapping out the adapter blocks for larger items, but means a more complicated initial install...and costlier...
1c) I'm undecided on injectors...I run Peco injectors on my Westfield, they seem to be the favoured injector for my MBE-whiz mate (IIRC they have great flow characteristics for low duty cycle, easy to drive by the ECU) - at that point I may need to make custom injector rails rather than use the TurboKraft ones in the Injector Block kit?
1d) What sort of cc flow rate would I need, assuming a stock build?

Our EFI Injector Blocks are the easiest way to convert any 1976-94 Turbo to EFI. They will allow you to re-use teh current manifold, throttle body & linkage, intercooler, air intake... They are the K.I.S.S. solution and available in any bore size from 32mm (stock heads) up to 42mm.

No need to go overboard on injector sizes. The Siemens Deka injectors we use on 90% of our builds are a 660cc (60#) injectors with a nice wide 30-deg spray cone for excellent atomization and fuel distribution in the port. This helps with getting excellent idle and low-speed engine behavior. They are high impedence injectors.

Originally Posted by Spenny_b

2) Do I need a cylinder head temp sensor on the 964? Or is there one there already?

YES! This is the correct way to get engine temperature for an EFI system. It's how the factory did it. We sell a simple billet adapter kit that allows you to use a stock Bosch head temp sensor.
If you use oil temp, expect very long warm-up times, with the engine running too rich for most of that time.

Originally Posted by Spenny_b

3) Crank position sensor...again, on the 964 is this something that's already present?

You have a sensor and bracket for the EZ69 ignition control unit. Re-use the bracket; the rest goes away. We offer a billet adapter and hall-effect sensor that reads the flywheel for the ECU's engine speed input. Hall-effect is a digital signal, cleaner and more reliable at higher rpms than a mag (magnetic) sensor.
Then use a standard 1990-98 Cup/RS flywheel (or 993TT dual mass if you want a more mild cruiser, totally quiet). If the MBE does not like the Bosch 60-2 flywheel tooth pattern, you can easily re-machine the 60-2 into a 12-tooth pattern -- which is exactly what many, many ECUs mathematically convert other timing patterns into, anyway.

Originally Posted by Spenny_b

4) Knock sensors? One of my books references a knock sensor bracket but then says "Not Turbo", so I guess that's for the Carreras...can this simply be retro-fitted onto an M30 lump?

The stock cylinders have no provision for this. If the heads are off, they can be machined to accept a 964/993 knock sensor assembly.

Originally Posted by Spenny_b

5) Assumption - I'm not going to be twin plugging - leave that for a future project - so TurboKrafts single coil/amplifier mounts look like a neat solution.

Thanks! That is a clean setup for distributorless conversions. We sell the plug wires, too. Other ignition options:
- distributorless with CDI: more spark energy, no dwell timing to program; but more cost for 3-channel CDI unit
- distributor with CDI: more spark energy, simple, re-use distributor + wires, just add CDI and new coil

Originally Posted by Spenny_b

6) I'm pretty sure that budget will dictate me retaining the stock 964 intercooler for the time being. Is this ok, or a really ill-advised idea?

We have found the stock 965 intercooler supports about 470rwhp (about approx. 525hp flywheel) before it begins to heat-soak.

Originally Posted by Spenny_b

7) Is it worth retaining the OE wastegate? I've stripped this down before and it looks fine, but as good practice, I'm more than happy to buy a known spring (I have an old receipt on file for a 1bar unit, but it's clearly only boosting to ca.0.7bar) and new diaphragm....or shall I invest in a more modern unit? Pretty sure I'm right in saying the MBE ECU will handle boost control, so I guess I'll need a solenoid for it to control - any stand-out recommendations?

The stock WG is fine, unless:
- it is damaged and needs remanufacturing -- then it is less expensive to replace with a 46mm Tial WG
- you go twin scroll -- then 2x small wastegates (Turbosmart, Tial -- we sell and use both)
If you keep the stock WG, replace the diaphragm and retain the soft spring if you're going to have the ECU control boost.
The solenoid valve used most (AEM, Greddy, Autronic, etc.) is a commercial pneumatic valve, <$50 (yes, we stock and sell those, too.)
Depending on the MBE's software, it may offer 2 boost levels, 3, or full boost trim.
- 2 position: we use a small OEM switch ($20) for a clean look, goes right in the dash in a factory cutout.
- 3 position or trim switch: source locally from electronics supplier, or AEM (12 Position Universal Trim Pot) or Motec

Originally Posted by Spenny_b

Now, the good stuff....what can I remove from the engine when moving away from CIS?
- Fuel distributor head
- WUR
- Vacuum limiter valve?
- Oxygen sensor control unit?
- Acceleration enrichment control unit?
- Auxiliary air regulator?
...what else?

Anything CIS goes away. Check out Bruce's conversion: 1991 Porsche 965 Carrera 2 Turbo | Bruce (apologies for gallery thumbnails being fubar).
Basically, strip the manifold down to just the manifold and throttle body.
The only wiring that stays is the instrumet harness -- and even half that can be cut out.
The oxygen sensor system is deleted, plus it's wring harness and controller under the seat. The other control units under the seat are removed, too.
The EZ69 unit and wiring is removed.
The fuel accumulator and CIS lines is removed, leaving just the fuel supply and return lines leading into the engine compartment.