Super Jim,
Dr. Ryan (what's with all the SC doctors, did I miss something?) has you on the right track. You don't need to remove the A-arms to get the crossmember out. Just remove the belly pan, remove the sway bar, unbolt the steering rack, and I dunno if the SC's have the cheesy factory alarm like my Carrera, but there's a small horn for the alarm which is bolted to the crossmember as well. Might need to separate the tie rods from the knuckle too if they're in the way. I dropped every piece of the suspension when I did this, so i'm not exactly sure what needs to be disconnected in order to get only the crossmember out.
Anyway, then remove the two big rearward bolts which hold the rear of the A-arm and the crossmember itself to the body. You should then be able to muscle the crossmember out of there. Might be easier to get it out if you slide the t-bars out as well. Just remember which one is left/right.
You should be able to snag a replacement crossmember from PartsHeaven. My buddy got one from there for $75. Ask 'em, "What's that go for? About $50?" And see what they shoot you!
Or see if JW has one lying around? It'd give you a reason to pay a visit and learn some new tricks.
If you decide to pull the A-arms, the slotted nut tool does work to get the buggers off. But, it gets a little boogered-up when you use it with an impact just like RoninLB said. Too many removal jobs will definitely destroy this $45 socket! I tried the hammer and chisel method but I kept moving my workbench around with the heavy blows. Impatience got the best of me and I cranked up the compressor. The tool is better suited for install work.
You should probably use this time to refresh your A-arm bushings as well. Mine were pretty misshapen at 64K mi. Yours can only be worse.
Good luck