Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt Fricke
Andy
I found the hardest part was restaking (pressure cast aluminum case). I thought I had made a suitable punch, but wasn't satisfied with the result. At which point I regretted not using green Loctite sleeve retainer. So I added some more stakes.
Later a friend asked if I had tested the new squirters. No, why? Because he had found some which did not work, perhaps because staking distorted them. Oh, well I'll find out at first teardown. Hope it won't be for a burned piston.
This got me to thinking that, at least for a race motor you expect to rebuild every couple of years, there must be a better mousetrap to hold these things in.
What about overboring the outer little bit of the hole, and taping it. Then using a threaded collar (open in its middle) to hold them in? With a screwdriver slot, so it could be removed as needed?
The collar could maybe even stick up some over the web? In which case it could have a hex head?
|
Walt,
I had similar experience when I found 2 of the 3 oil squirters for bank 1-2-3 to be defective (clogged). I spent several days using Seafoam and high pressure air to de-clog the two (2) squirters to no avail. It looked very intimidating drilling out aluminum squirters out and had to ask advise from Bruce A. and Mike B. (both from Southeastern). Advise was to drill it out and stake the edge of the hole to keep the squirter in place.
I couldn't make a good stake or close to what the factory had on the engine. Getting a decent stake on the metal was quite a challenge. However, pressure test showed all 6 squirters having nice spray patterns and holding up against pressure. Below is the picture of the clogged oil squirter with factory stake marks.
The aluminum oil squirters for 3.0 liter engines are 6 mm in diameter and less than 22 mm long. So selecting the right drill size is critical. I used a 5 mm drill bit to take the old squirters out. See picture of the extracted squirter and the new one.
Tony