So cool that John John won the triple crown and is the youngest person to ever win it. And KP, his story is cool. Glad he won.
I am glad I caught the end of this too. So awesome! And it is so true what Andy Irons said about catching a wave. "It's like being kissed by God". RIP. Even me, who literally sucks at surfing, knows what he is talking about. Totally true. Fleeting but for an instant, it seems like time is going by so slow and your senses are heightened. You can feel, hear, see the wind and the water all at the same time. And the rest of the time, you are chasing that feeling again. Even for only seconds. I can only imagine how these guys feel. I am just going straight. These guys are riding all these big barrels. I love it! Thanks for letting me know it was going on, Richard! I love this thread!
Hmmm... I don't know, Baz. I really like snowboarding. It gives me a similar rush as surfing but without all that damn paddling! Ha! But the snow, definitely different than the ocean. There is a whole zen factor with the ocean. Surfing is so hard though... and you have to look good... you are half naked. Snowboarding, I can be fat. It will just look like more padding in my snowboard pants. Ha ha!