Quote:
Originally Posted by 9FF
Brandon, you really need to think about the whole system as a whole rather than throwing spring rates around. Sway bars, tire size damper valving also play an important part in the overall driveabity of the car. Also, camber plates, solid bushes and spherical bearings in the top mount of your rear coilover might not help you one bit on the roads you describe and will transfer a lot of noise into the cabin.
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Thanks for your help here, and for making me think about this all a little harder.
I am thinking of the system as a whole, and I'm not going to monoballs all over or anything crazy like that due to NVH concerns. I'm going with the Weltmeister polygraphite bushings everywhere they were available and OEM rubber where they weren't (just the sway bar bushings). The only reason I didn't go with rubber all the way around is I wanted them to last a little bit longer. I will be upgrading the front shock mounts to the KLA monoballs but only because the original mounts are in pretty bad shape and the KLAs are actually considerably cheaper than new OEM mounts. I'm not adding in a camber plate or anything. I plan to run close to stock ride height with stock 15" phonies and Goodyear Eagle GT V tires for now (in Tennessee we have more than our fair share of wet weather, so I've gotta have decent traction in the wet on a DD).
I'm keeping the factory sways for now: 23x3.5mm tubular up front, 14mm rear (with the early mounting style). I'll learn a little bit more about the handling with a fresh suspension on the car before deciding whether any changes need to be made there. I also have a KLA strut brace I'm going to put on the refreshed car that I hadn't bothered with yet because the suspension on it had been in such questionable shape.
My goal here is a fun streetable ride that I can dial in for an autocross or DE (oh, and also my goal is to have a refreshed suspension system that's reliable, and it's been in questionable shape for some time). To that end, I may keep the Konis full soft most of the time, but if I know I have a track day coming up I may dial them up. 220 effective at all 4 corners seems like a reasonable upgrade from the stock ride without going crazy. I'm basically keeping the car as close to factory as possible, with newer, nicer components and a slightly stiffer spring rate at all 4 corners and leaving myself the option to easily upgrade spring rates later on if I get more serious about the track.
Thanks for all your help,
Brandon