I'm back at work now
after having had a great summer holiday at the beach. Thanks to cyclone Zoe (not thanks for wiping out a few pacific islands) for the good swell reaching our east coast. Yes indeed some filthy little sand sucking left hand barrels beaking a little over head height and super duper hollow. I didn't come out of any of the tubes but got inside on about six waves. It was breaking into about a foot of water over a sand bar so the end of each wave felt like getting beaten up by a bunch of logging truck drivers (or lesbians for that mater) but it was worth it. Other days were a nice 3' swell and out with the long board wearing the shorty wetsuit, and waves just about each day for the last 3 weeks. Ummm, somehow I'm sorta having trouble getting back into this work thing...