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Originally Posted by Dave at Pelican Parts
I hope this helps someone else down the road!--DD
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It certainly would have, had I found it before I replaced my woofs and tweets last week.
Luckily, as a veteran of numerous BMW 2002 window regulator repairs, I was pretty familiar with how the Germans do doors.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave at Pelican Parts
My wife has an 82 911SC. One of the door-mounted speakers (aftermarket) was really badly blown, so as an early Christmas present I decided to replace them for her. When I did that, somehow I jammed the lock in the open position--the knob and button will not move. The obstruction appears to be at the latch end of things, as I can see the rod trying to move slightly.
--DD
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Here's the funny thing: I did the same thing. I had the door half re-assembled when I realized the inside lock lever or knob wouldn't operate. (although I SWEAR it did one time.) I pulled it back apart and looked at it all, never fixing it, so I gave up. Lo and behold, when I got it all back together and I shut the door, it all worked fine. Then I remember that Germans have idiot-proof doors (so you can't lock the keys inside.)
AFAIK, the inside lock mechanism WON'T work with the door open. But it works just fine with the door closed. IIRC, this is exactly how the BMW locks worked, as well.
One thing to add to your excellent how-to: When removing the retaining screw from said knob, put a pair of channel locks (very gently) on the knob when you loosen the screw. When I did mine, the screw was tight enough that the torque spun it around and cause a very loud POP as something in the lock mechanism gave way, which led me to believe I'd messed something in the mechanism up in the first place. Turning the screw counter clockwise is the same direction as unlocking, and I thought I'd popped the rod off the lock. Tightening isn't so much an issue as you're tightening against the locked lock, pulling on the rods, not pushing them against their little plastic keepers.