Just to reiterate from previous threads. I used and am very happy with the caps from BW Motorsports(618-622-0524 no web page that I know of), they are located in O'Fallon, Ill and are great folks to deal w/. Brad Stubbs the proprietor is extremely helpful.
Front
The rubber lip attached below the f/g bumper cap is a Ruf part which is nla, but could be easily replicated. This lip is included as part of the molding of the p/u spoiler which looks the same but bolts under the stock al. bumper. I like the idea of p/u but hated the stock bellows so f/g cap it is.
Rear
Neither bumper uses the stock bumper mounts, the rear does use the stock struts behind the rear wheels. The bumpers are fastened w/ small bolt, nut, washers drilled verticaly through the fender and f/g flanges and a few blind nuts into the front bulkhead. The welting used between the f/g and the fenders is a 930 part, 999 911 205 40, 76-80930 bumper welting, which comes in 5m long rolls, 1 roll for both bumpers. The grills are stock SC engine grills cut and bolted to the f/g. The bumpers have proved to be are quite sturdy and have survived a couple of off road excursions.
Beneath the caps but in no way connected to them are f/r nerf bars. I had intended to make them from al. (still have the raw material) but used steel because of time constraints( I can cut and weld steel w/a mig but need to learn more about al. The euro cars used non-hydraulic bumper struts which are used to connect the nerf bars to the chassis. The rear struts were moved to the front and the fronts were shortened a few inches and moved to the rear(the eurorstruts are available reasonably aftermarket but not necessary. They do make life easy though). It was suggested but never investigated that 964 al. inner bumper bars would also work in that capacity. The front nerf bar does double duty as a perfect place to mount the front oil cooler.
BW's pieces included all of the pieces necessary to bolt the stock turn signal boxes into the provided openings. To those unfamiliar w/ them the wiring is a bit convoluted so take good notes and mark wire securely before /during disassembly. I invented a special tool to reach the nuts from below the car. For those interested I willl try to remember to take and post a pic.
Was it worth it? an unqualified
YES!! The appearance alone is worth it, I knew from the day I bought it that the oem bumpers had to go. If appearance isn't important to you then the weight savings and the favorable effect on chassis dynamics are.
Some additional comments
- the NACA ducts were a failure according to Alois himself
- the rear fenders were widened ~1" by welding sheetmetal into a stock SC/Carrera flare
- the extra 1" was to get the 10" Speedline rear wheels to fit, this can also be accomplished by choosing different wheels w/ appropriate o/s
- the front tires were relatively narrow by modern standards again because of the o/s on the Speedlines
- the oil tank was moved to get better weight dist and to provide room for the turbos and exhaust plumbing(more for the latter than the former) you could also use a '72 setup, or a 964/993 setup or a front trunk mounted oil tank to accomplish the same
Souk, if it was my car I would do the flares and bumper at one time to reduce wasted labor. These days the flares(even steel which I recommend) are glued on rather than welded, this reduces the cost of labor a lot. The steel flares are only ~$300 last I checked. If you need to cut costs leave the sills alone. Also keep in mind that the cap reduces flow of air thru the front fender mounted cooler, plan on ducting from the driving light hole to compensate.