Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Coffey
I'll have to check those out. I've always used the grey coated square-drive screws for (most) wood, and they've been excellent (especially for flush/countersink applications).
|
+1
I've driven a lot of both. The square drive seem to carry a tighter tolerance/fit between the drive and the screw (compared to the Torx). I found myself having to be much more careful with the torx.
To the OP: not such a good tip. A larger size Torx
might work, as long as the jump in size is small, and the hammer is big. Else, you're tying to cold forge quite a bit.
Things to try first: Slotting the head, and using an old fashioned flat blade drive and an impact drive; if it's really far gone. If not, use the same size Torx drive and and the impact driver. (often the base of the socket has grabbable/contact surface)
