[VW@heart]

In reply to 930: Wow! You’re continuing to pick out one word and missing another. In my last post I compared the SBC to a tractor, not a 911 to a tractor. WhatWhereHow’d you get that?
The very simple point there is the smaller engine with the same hp has a very different power band than an engine twice the size and the very same hp. Its not a history lesson you are missing, it’s the prac app.

You seem to be hemmed to your reading, which can be a good thing but if you don’t pick up the shop rags you can get a scewed view from just a magazine.

I have several good recipes for HiPo SBC, much of the data is far from what Chevy creates. I will post one or two. There are numerous pubs available that will show you how to get it together. Don’t read a slickie and claim to know what Lingenfelter is planning when he engineer an SBC. He can take a fishing pole and turn it into a drive shaft. He is also an influencial business man. The more you type the more you move your arm chair into a corner.

I will type up a few recipes from obtainable pubs, most of it easily done by a mechanics with time on his hands.

In reply to Pillow: Point on point #4 that’s understandable.

Yes I have swapped Type 4 with Type1s, I put a VW wagon Type4 engine into an old VW bus at age 17. The bus ran great, it was a good daily driver that had more low end power and ran much better than the Type 1 with a stick (everything was stock). At age 18 I was working on a Type 4 into a Bug, it requires a bit of new sheet metal, and another project took its place before completion. The bus ran good until the trans gave out, a rebuilt one may have worked better, not sure.

Pillow reply cont.: Solid lifter V8s can run for much longer periods of time w/o valve adj than air-cooled alloy suitcase style engine. The higher temps and alloys expand and contract much more than the V8.

Your point on how long an engine will live in relation to its output is the beauty of the SBC, there is no need to buy a dozen high speed parts and wind the snot out of it to get the speed you want. It will do just fine putting out 350-450hp from 3,000-6,500rpms (for a street engine the torque will be as high the hp). Just eliminate about a half dozen of the weakest links, lighten up the bottom end and it will run run and run at its planned power band.

I cannot agree that racers (depends on what type of racing?) tear down their engines every year, someone is going to be as competitive with their engine as they can be given time, manpower, competition etc. Some have no intension of taking their motor apart for years to come. I have friends that are competitive weekend racers that take the bottom ends apart a couple times a year, and none the next. On the other hand some the big boys at NHRA may have their engines apart at every race. I don’t pay much attention to them, it’s not so interesting unless I’m there.

MOST IMPORTANT POINT HERE>> Since I’m NOT running anywhere near racecar output, the only relation any of that has to do with me is I use some high-speed parts to add RELIABILITY to my MIDRANGE motor. I do not have any plans on being competitive at any track.
Just occasionally on the street or maybe someday at the run what you brung events. Around one hp per cube, a 377 SBC with Trick Flow heads running 350-400 hp at 6,000 rpm will do just fine, and runnning and running like a Duracell.
I have some nice .pics of a 911 - 450 hp 377 SBC with a lot of run hard goodies on the engine. The guy is also fitting a turbo to it, can’t seem to go fast enough I guess.

I will get some RELIABLE HiPo and dyno’d recipes and their references posted. With 1990s aftermarket technology, informed planning, and accurate workmanship it’s a piece of cake.

How do we get the pic’s posted?


PS, As far as the unrelated stock rambling that the SBC crowd has to comment on, the LS1/LS6 are underated from the factory. As I posted earlier, some guys are dyno'n them at the tire and getting almost as much as Chevy says the engine is putting out.

PPS, And always remember, ther are wheel dynos and engine dynos don't mix up the results. There are also wide variations of standards set for the engine dynos, don't get too caught up reading one magazine test and comparing it another.

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