[tadd]

First question you need to ask yourself is how hard do you want to spin it. Under 7k or over 8? Money flows from there :-). Also depends on what you want 'feel' wise. Tractor or sports car? I'm a rev happy nut freak thanks to growing up on bikes so I spent (and spent, and spent).

Under 7k use stock parts and an S or mod S cam. Build a 2.7 or 2.8. Save money and enjoy. Nothing wrong with the T crank. They spin up quick :-).

If you want to spin it, youll need to do the oil mods, get a bigger pump and x-drill the crank. stay in the head flow sandbox which the factory provided you can get away with your clothes on otherwise that's another 1.5-2k in CNC time on top of rebuild costs. A 2.5 will be pushing stock 36 mm port heads at full chat on a heavy breathing cam like a DC 80 or RSR sprint. Heavy springs and Ti retainers of course. People poo poo the 906 grind as old and outdated, but it has really gentle ramps for high rpm operation on stock rate springs. Less wear, less friction. It has a lot going for it IMHO. It is also 'softer' in a 2.5/2.7. Titanium wrist pins are only $550 and that's 25g lost right where it does the most good. Worth looking into along with R&P rods.

Regardless of CR, twin plug it. It's $400 for the machine work. Put plugs in and bolt on the lower covers on (undrilled) and enjoy till you can afford to get the ignition pieces. It will future proof you for gasoline.

Best thing you can do is find someone that will let you drive or ride in their baby with the engine you think you want. See what they do. Make sure you hit traffic :-).

Good luck.

t