Ok, think I got it fixed. Lots learned. I’m going to pass it on what I think I found. The old latch had two cold solder connections. Of concern was terminal 8 – the common to ground. I only found this out after installing a new latch and took apart the old one. It took a while to find it and a powerful magnifying glass. Had to wiggle the plug until I could see the post wiggle above the solder joint.
My wiring connection drawing did not match what if found with the new latch. I’ll include that info. I simulated the conditions on the bench. Out of the box the winding showed 26.1 ohms, note change after I powered the unit the value dropped. My drawing shows terminal 9 used for close winding but nothing is wired to 9. My drawing shows two coils like a solenoid but a motor is used and is revisable.
Door closed & locked
1&2 – winding – 6 ohm
All contacts open
Door closed and unlocked
1&2 4 ohms
3&8 Closed
Door open and unlocked
8&4 closed
8&3 closed
1&2 4.5 ohms
9 not used, as per drawing 5&6 – key (passenger door with no key), 7 safe contact
I could not locate the source of the smoke unless it was intermittent connections or my eyes were messing with me. I did find the harness gang connection at the doorpost a bit loose. Lots learned. Hope this helps someone. The Tech Forum really helped. Local shop will reset my code no charge.
Why I couldn't start my car: I believe that when the door was unlocked the cold solder joint at terminal 8 (common) must have been open which would have looked like the door was locked. I tried to start the car the Immobilizer must have seen a conflict between the unlocked driver and locked passenger and prevented the car from starting. That's my theory...
