Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeke
Use a smaller tip than what you would use for paint. They even make a "fine finish" tip that has a double orifice so the stain is atomized a bit and distributed more evenly. That tip will cost double what a regular tip does. I'd recommend a .015 at the most for either type. Strain your material through a strainer bag. No kidding because there is a lot of junk in paints and stains that will clog a small tip.
You don't have to have a lot of overspray. Hold the gun at 12" and never more than 80 degrees perpendicular to the fence. IOW, don't "fan" your strokes. Orient the tip sideways and go up and down with the boards, never across. After getting used to the right amount of material applied, it should go well without too much back brushing. Spraying stain on a thirsty surface will always come out lighter than if you brushed it. Keep a brush handy for any runs. Maybe do 2 coats while its wet. Normally you would wait until your material is dry for the 2nd coat, but with stain you want to saturate, not build.
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Milt,
Penofin is like Watco Oil. Even if you put a lot in one area and little on the other, the color will not change much. The difference you will see is the difference of natural color on the lumber itself.
Hard Drive,
Test a small spot and you will see what I mean. the lumber will soak up as much as it can at various spots so you will have to reapply and keep it wet for at least 5 minutes. Remember to do the back. If not,you will have lots or warped boards in a few weeks. Soak the ends of the boards. It will drink the stain there, so be sure to apply lots of stain on there for protection. A board draw lots of moister through the ends. Keep that seal. What'd the fence material?