[juan ruiz]

Step 5b: Washing the Vehicle -

With a new, high quality washing mitt and the bucket with the car shampoo we will work on sections. We wash the surface and immediately rinse. We then dip the oxidation block in the bucket which has the soapy solution. After that we proceed to pass the block with a horizontal motion to all the painted surfaces, one section at the time.

Do it section-by-section so the soap doesn’t dry. If it does dry, just re-soap the area and rinse again. I do the rear of the car and the front bumpers last, as these have the most grime. You want to wash in long sweeping strokes, don’t wash in circles.

Step 6: Drying Vehicle Surface

When you are done rinsing the car of all the soap, you want to remove the nozzle from the hose and do what’s called the “flooding” method. Flood the surface of the car from top to bottom with the hose. This turns those thousands of little beads of water into one big sheet, and it helps dry the car faster. After that is done, use a waffle weave drying towel from the top down to dry the rest of the car. There should be very little water left on the surface of the car at this point. Make sure if you see a spot of dirt you missed, or loose debris on the car, that you don’t touch it with your drying towel. Re-wash the area and then dry. I usually use a couple of inexpensive micro fibers to dry the wheels and tires. Wheels can get water spots as well, so you want to make sure you dry those along with the paint. Using the proper drying tools is important.

I like to use something called a “waffle weave” towel for drying which is one of the safest ways to dry your car. Another common tool is the chamois and we can go as far as using leaf blowers to completely remove all the water from all the tight spaces and trim. Other options as blowers or air dryers will work.


Step 7: Taping the Vehicle -

Since we are going to do a full detail job the use of power tools will be
needed. As safety measure we tape all the trim areas and delicate areas. The main purpose of this step is “in case” we make contact by the power tool we will not damage the trim area. Not taking this important step while using a power tool could result in leaving “scuffing marks” on the unprotected surfaces. We like to use 2’ masking tape and at times we choose bright colors so they stand out.


Step 8A Pre Wax - ( If no paint correction is needed)

Pre-wax is just as the name implies, to get the surface ready for wax to be applied. Tar spots, tree saps and various other surface contaminates are usually not taken off by a product that is termed wax only. Your better pre-cleaners have a small amount of abrasive in them, and a lot of the wax/cleaners on the market have a very high content of solvents in them. The wax/cleaners with high solvent content in them need to be avoided, as they will eventually deteriorate the surface to which they are applied. Pre Wax Cleanser is especially formulated to be used prior to applying a Wax.

If you're trying to get a really incredible, deep, vibrant shine from your wax, you need to use a pre wax cleanser to properly prepare the surface prior to use of car wax. The benefit of Pre Wax Cleanser is that it prepares the surface after you wash it so that the paint surface doesn’t get contaminated by dirt or anything else
that may keep you from getting the ultimate protection. The process is very close to the one done with the swirl remover. On this step we like to apply the Pre Wax by hand but will remove it via Porter Cable with a white pad and touch it up with a high quality super soft Micro fiber towel. Again, extreme care must be taken with trim and delicate areas. Apply by hand.

Step 10: Car Wax -

We now move to the final step, the application of the car wax. Again we like
to apply the wax by hand and remove via Porter Cable using a white foam pad and finished with a super flush Micro fiber towel. With our car wax you don’t need

Step 8B: Swirl Removal/ Light Scratch and Paint Correction -

In this step you should tackle all of the
above problems. This could be a very involved process that can be addressed with many different tools, so we will concentrate in the Swirl Remover and the Porter Cable 7424XP ( Yes there's other tools out there for the fan of them)

The Porter Cable 7424 or (7424 XP newest version) dual action car polisher started the pro-consumer car polisher market life more than a decade ago. The Porter Cable 7424 is the industry standard dual-action car polisher. A machine that operates by orbiting the polishing pad around a center spindle while the pad freely spins on its own axis. A counterweight on the opposite side of the center spindle dampens vibration for smooth operation. The tool head action, often called orbital, prevents the creation of holograms (symmetrical buffing marks), paint
burns and other forms of paint damage often associated with high-speed buffing machines.

The polishing action of a dual-action polisher closely mimics that of circular hand polishing. With this tool(s) many different foam pads can be used. They come in
many sizes, designs and colors. The color is the industry standard rule of thumb for a certain job and more colors are appearing in the market.

- Yellow Foam Pad- Use for Heavy duty Compound
- Orange Foam Pad- Use for Light duty Compound
- Green Foam Pad- Use for Compound/Polish
- White Foam Pad- Use for Polish
- Black Foam Pad- Use for Machine Glaze
- Blue Foam Pad- Use for Polish/Sealant

Some of us utilize much more advance pads such as microfiber pads and real sheep wool pads.

With brand new foam pads we like to spray a very light mist of water or detailer. Extreme care must be taken when working near the taped areas. I
personally like to start with a speed of 4 and from there work up to the speed 6, but I do most of the work at 4. I also recommend to run the Porter Cable power core thru the shoulder to avoid any contact with the work area and surface area.
To accomplish this task we have found out that the systems that works for us are as follows: Use with
an air or electric Random Orbital Buffer, preferably with a 3/8 stroke. With electric use a medium to
high setting. With air, make sure 90 psi is maintained at the tool when in use.

Step 9: Tire Dressing -

I like to apply a tire gel using an applicator with a very thin layer of gel to the
sidewall. If more shine is desired a second coat can be applied. Most of the time one coat is enough. The tire gel also prevents premature sidewall dry rot and cracking. One of the biggest complaints of today’s car enthusiast is the “sling” created by many of today’s inferior products used to dress your car tires. ( There's actually products out there that wont sling!)

Step 10: Windows

I like to do the windows last using a product for windows ammonia free and a microfiber window towel.

Step 11: Spray Wax/ Detailer

I like to apply one coat of spray wax for the wow factor.

A few good “Guidelines” for detailing your vehicle you could use. But they are not just guidelines depending on many factors and you may need to do it more often or not, this is the way we do it.

Detailing / Week 1 2 3 4

Exterior Car Shampoo X X X X

Wash Tires & Wheels X X X X

Detail Tires & Wheels X X X X

Clean/Polish Glass X X

Detail Vinyl & Rubber Trim X X X X

Chrome & Polished Aluminum X X

Polymer Wax X

Pre wax X

Cleaning X Interior Vacuum X X X X

Condition Leather & Vinyl Dust
Vents & Electronics X X X X