Quote:
Originally Posted by J P Stein
I built a table saw.
Table saws are not about HP, IMO, but ease of use, blades, fences, and requirements. The average guy needs a 5HP, 220v table saw like another hole in your head.
The ease of use part is a safety factor. When (not if) you get hung up, a 220V saw will throw you and your work piece thru a wall....BTDT...almost...not me but the piece. A 115lb, 4 X 8 X 3/4 sheet of MDF is not easy to manipulate even if you have muscles in your s***.
If your 220v saw is fighting you, you loose. My 110v Sears saw looses.....or did when I was younger....and I'm not looking for a re-engagement.
My big router is built in (but removable) on the right end. The whole works weighs in around 500-600 lbs & on casters. I have extra tooling to support big stuff while cutting. I have all my fingers also (knock wood) tho they are a bit scared.
If I *needed* an industrial strenght saw, I'd go with Powermatic or Delta and a GOOD FENCE. |
an under power tool is a dangerous tool. When the saw comes back up to speed, that's when things go wrong. A single cut is always more accurate then multiple cuts to achieve the same result. Kick backs should not happen. Most are operator errors. I cut miles miles of panels with traditional saws with outfeed supports by myself im my youth working for various cabinet makers. I am done fighting and cut panels on our panel saw. Safe, and done accurately without blow outs on melamine.
If and when I do anything in the shop, my old fashion Powermatic 66 is usually where I go, not my sliding saw.