Thanks guys!
@Bruce: I don't think I loaded the cam to remove the pin slack...but I made so many adjustments that I can't remember every wrench twist exactly.
@Walt: Those readings were taken with the nuts at full torque...in fact, with my first few adjustments, I hadn't read the instructions very carefully, and was torquing the nut fully with every adjustment lol (lot of extra work). Also, I just took measurements again (after probably a dozen full crank cycles) and the readings were the same...
I guess my question is: If you guys were working on this would you take out the tensioners and re-test the timing, or just go ahead with the build? One point of reference; I did run through a meticulous valve-to-piston clearance examination and had ample clearance throughout a full 720 degree cycle on both intake & exhaust valves for cylinders 1 & 4.
I don't mind re-testing the timing, because I know how integral this step is for the safety of my engine, but if I can avoid it, that would be great (obviously haha).
I understand that you guys are working with limited information, but I really appreciate your input.
Thanks again - Alex
And just because it motivates me to see it...here's a picture of the old girl that I'm trying to get on the road by this summer
