[JCF]

My bud , the one in that pic owns a great house in Rincon with a view of Tres Palmas from the top floor deck.
Spends half the year down there.
His wife and kid are still down there but he is back to work here and he was telling me the other day they called and his 9 year old daughter was out in some bigger surf and first, got the ride of her [young] life - and then paddling back out got a set wave right on top of the head.
I guess she tried to duck dive it and the wife (who is herself a very good surfer) said you could see her get sucked up and then go backwards over the falls still holding on to her board.
When he asked her how it felt she said it was ok - but that she wasn't going to let go of that board for ANYTHING, that she was afraid she wouldn't get back to the surface if she did and laughed.

I laughed too because once [in my prime even] I had the exact same experience.

Got to love it !

Love those vintage pics too Baz - and that board !