Quote:
Originally Posted by JCF
My bud , the one in that pic owns a great house in Rincon with a view of Tres Palmas from the top floor deck.
Spends half the year down there.
His wife and kid are still down there but he is back to work here and he was telling me the other day they called and his 9 year old daughter was out in some bigger surf and first, got the ride of her [young] life - and then paddling back out got a set wave right on top of the head.
I guess she tried to duck dive it and the wife (who is herself a very good surfer) said you could see her get sucked up and then go backwards over the falls still holding on to her board.
When he asked her how it felt she said it was ok - but that she wasn't going to let go of that board for ANYTHING, that she was afraid she wouldn't get back to the surface if she did and laughed.
I laughed too because once [in my prime even] I had the exact same experience.
Got to love it !
Love those vintage pics too Baz - and that board !
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Hey JCF - I just remembered an old friend of mine who used to shape boards here in NSB moved to
PR many moons ago. His name is Bill Geiger. We always called him "Doc" Geiger because he always had these theories about board design which were cutting edge. I wonder if your friend knows him or has heard of him. Not sure where he re-located to in
PR but must have been in the Rincon area. Be cool to see how he is doing these days. Couple of my boards were shaped by him back in the day. They rode great. One was a fish too....an M.C.G. with the G. being "Geiger".
Thanks,
Baz