Quote:
Originally Posted by VirginiaF1
Thus, if seeing 4 bar @3,000rpm (and 180F coolant for at least 20 mins), the OPRV is failing?
Or the OP sensor is suspect?
If neither, is it time for ATF or SeaFoam in the crankcase 100 miles prior to next Oil Change?
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Well, that's where it starts depending on whether you're using regular viscosity oil or pancake syrup in your car. 
But seriously, how soon you hit 4 bar depends on oil temp and viscosity. Right now, I don't see 4 bar until 5000+ rpm. Back when I ran 20W-50, I'd see 4 bar as soon as 2500 rpm. Wherever you hit 4 bar, if it stops there and doesn't increase appreciably with increasing rpm, the OPRV is fine. It might run up to 4.5 or slightly higher by the time you're at redline, especially with a thicker oil, just because the bypass port of the OPRV is posing some resistance that increases the pressure slightly at the high oil volume flow of high rpm, but if it increases substantially across the remaining rpm range after it hits 4 bar, i.e. hitting the peg at operating temp when the revs increase far enough, the OPRV may be sticking or the oil cooler housing is not aligned well, preventing the valve from fully opening. Now the valve sticking open should be obvious with an unusual/unsafe drop in oil pressure at low rpm/idle. If the oil pressure behaves erratically, like hitting 4 bar at wildly varying rpm and/or randomly dropping oil pressure too much at lower rpm, it's possible it's the pressure sender, wiring, or bad grounds, but also an indication of a worn, gummed up, or misaligned OPRV. The original 3 piece OPRV had issues with sticking until it got updated, and then eventually replaced with a one piece retrofit part.
Oh, on a side note about oil temps, since I have installed an oil temp gauge, I have found that it takes roughly 5 times longer for the oil to come up to full operating temp than it does for the coolant to come to temp.