[id10t]

IIRC when brand new a generator has to be polarized...

Other than that, the voltage coming from the generator is not consistent, so it goes generator to regulator to car electrical system. Adjusting the regulator depends on exactly which model you have, but on my 356 it is a matter of slightly bending one contact to increase or decrease gap.


Here's a test process from Joe Leoni, an expert in 6v 356 electronics which shouldn't be too far off your Ghia 6v electrics...

Byron; a quick check of the generator is as follows;
Brushes are of adequate length to touch the commutator.
Brush springs have life.
Bearings are fresh and lubricated, armature turns easy. Use
grease sparingly, and force behind the balls. Just a tad of
axial freedom should be noted, to allow for thermal growth.
No burn marks on commutator. Comm should have a nice brown
film. Drop the fan belt.
Ground the DF terminal at the generator, apply a ground to
the D- point, and then touch +6 volts to the D+ terminal.
The generator will run, then lift the ground from DF and the
generator (motor) will speed up. On speeding up, this is an
indication that the fields are working. No fields working,
no counter electromotive force, and armature current
increases allowing the motor to speed up. Just running
without checking the fields is only half of the job. Good
luck, Joe 356 Electrics It's in the books.

Byron; to test the generator while the engine is running
requires a voltmeter.

Connect the D+ lead to a voltmeter and the other voltmeter
lead to ground..
On the DF terminal land a short piece of wire.
Start the engine, voltmeter on, now touch the wire hanging
on DF to ground.
The voltage will jump up to about 8+ volts at 1200 rpm. If
nothing happens, no voltage, flash the field by running it
like a motor as described in step 1. If it still won't
build up voltage, the fields are probably reversed.
Joe 356 Electrics