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That spring compressor should work fine. It looks like a purpose built version of what I was trying to explain. Clarks garage should have some info on the specifics of removing the cam housing. You will need a new cam housing gasket, and also will need to re tension the cam belt. The lifters should be kept in order if possible, but it's not the end of the world if they get mixed up. Just tilt the cam housing carefully towards the exhaust side and turn upside down to keep them in. The housing bolts will be very stuck, so be sure to rap on them with a punch and hammer to help break up the corrosion. The aluminum plugs that allow access to the inner bolts that you need the long shank hex bit for can also be pretty stuck. I actually broke off a 3/8" drive hex bit trying to get them off the first time. Best way is to use an open end wrench on the shank of the hex bit and offset 180 degrees from the hex driver handle to make a makeshift T handle tool that will allow you to pop them loose without putting too much side load on the brittle hex bit. Put some duct tape or similar around your long shank hex bit where it would contact the threads on the access holes so it doesn't damage the threads when the bolt pops loose, and spend the money for a good quality hex bit (SK, SnapOn, etc.)...it is incredible how much force it takes through that shank to break them loose, and the last thing you need is for the tool to break or to strip out the bolt head due to poor tool steel or bad sizing. The job can easily take all day for an experienced wrench, and could take longer depending on if you break any cam housing bolts. The secret is to snug each bolt.back down as you break them free in order to prevent the pressure of the valve springs from pushing the housing up and torquing sideways on the remaning bolts, making them much harder to break loose.
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1987 silver 924S made it to 225k mi! Sent to the big garage in the sky
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