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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: The state of ME.
Posts: 1,736
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We get a wave of outsiders here in the summer at a very beautiful and accessible point break. A very long sweet right right when it is on but a peaky barreling inside left appears as well on a west swell. Breaks from 2ft up to well overhead. It is a magic place as all really good breaks are, and though I have never surfed Hawaii - i've surfed enough great breaks on the east and west coasts and in Europe to know it is special.
And because the waves are scarce in summer, when there are any waves at all it gets crowded and the tension level rises.
However, I'm sorry - But I don't go for that localism stuff (see that first quote about forming crowds..that goes for the local crowds as well).
I AM a local here, and was one of the "Big Dogs" - but I don't feel I own the break.
One of the reasons I quit surfing for a long while was because I found myself sucked into that scene and on re-eval realized if I couldn't share and play nice I should get out of the playground till I could.
I realize where that negative energy comes from and it would be nice if everyone were respectful, but some people just don't know better and the ones that don't care are temporary problems and easily avoided in a large body of water.
Letting myself become distracted by the negativity ruined the peace I sought in riding waves and being in the ocean.
I rarely surf that point anymore - usually when it is bigger (and colder) and have never enjoyed surfing more.
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Last edited by JCF; 06-28-2013 at 07:39 PM..
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