Wood is superior to the fiberglass (cuetek) models...fancy inlays do nothing to aid your game, but they are pretty. Frankly, at $100-150, you are on the low end of the price scale for a really good cue, but into the very servicable manufactured cues. I shoot with an entry level Jacoby custom cue...no inlays, just a plain Cocobolo butt, their J-2 model, 19 oz, pro taper hard maple shaft, 13mm medium "lepro" tip. But it's a $300 stick. For a break cue I also go 19 oz., an imported "Palmer" cue (not to be confused with the very collectable Palmer original window cue) in a "sneaky pete" style...meaning, screw it together it looks like a house cue. It works as a break cue because it has a very hard buffalo hide tip, and a stronger taper shaft than the Jacoby. This one cost me well under $100, but I bought it from a friend who distributes them. In your price range, I'd suggest looking at entry level (meaning no fancy inlays) cues made by either Viking or Meucci. Another option? Cruise pawn shops in your area. A lot of serious pool players are flakes...meaning they often have to pawn some pretty darned good equipment. But really, in the game of pool, it's not the arrow as much as it is the indian. I've seen some of the top level west coast players duke it out in 9 ball tournaments. Their skill level simply blows me away. Me? I can truthfully say I've never lost any money playing pool. That's because I don't bet!