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Thank you for all of the excellent suggestions.
I want to answer some of the questions that have been posted:
- I had the oil cooler out when I dropped the engine. It looked clean and in fairly decent shape. I sprayed the fins with carb cleaner and they were fairly clean.
- There are no mice nests or blockages. I had the sheet metal off the fan and can see the cone on the back of the alternator and all of the cylinders. They look free of any debris.
- The internal thermostat was tested in hot oil along side another thermostat that I had. It opened up fine and appeared to be functioning properly.
- I have only the one internal oil cooler so there are no other thermostats.
- I am in Raleigh, NC.
- My infrared thermostat is brand new and appears to be working properly.
- When I take temperature readings from the oil return lines and the lines on the oil cooler they are usually very close to the reading I get on the dashboard gauge.
- I have replaced with new the oil temperature sensor and the sender.
- The oil was changed and is at the proper level.
- I have the set the timing and adjusted the valves.
- Sump plate is oriented properly.
- Fan does not turn easily by hand.
Questions I have:
One thing I have not done is pulled the Oil Pressure Release valves. I do recall reading a post where the poster said it resolved his problem, however my question is aren't the release valves there to prevent oil pressure from going too high? My oil pressure is very low.
Many of the suggestions folks have, like blocked cam spray oil lines, lean fuel mixture, are good but seem like the they wouldn't lead to the car overheating as quickly as it is. I can see the car running hot in general under these conditions. But my car is at 250 degrees and climbing within 10 minutes of starting it from cold.
Thanks again for all of the suggestions.
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