Quote:
Originally Posted by Baz
Nice video JCF.....we have a small swell and I will be getting wet a little later....happy fishing!
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The surf was very nice, 8 ft faces, clean , light offshore winds. Long overdue and I surfed until I couldn't get up off the board.
The fish was just amazing - should be getting the copy Larry Mabile is shaping for me this week.
The thing I keep thinking about though;
As I was paddling back out to the lineup I noticed a young girl who seemed a little bit out of her element in what she later called "mountainous" waves.
She was drifting close enough to a small pack of young males so as not to be all alone but it was obvious she did not want to get too near them (harmless though they seemed).
I positioned myself on the other side with her between and kept an eye on her.
She would paddle without a great deal of conviction at the occasional wave, way out of position, too far outside to catch anything.
She drifted in at one point and a medium size set approached - the largest wave of the set headed right for her - she was in the perfect spot, and she turned, but I could see in her eyes she was not so sure she really wanted to paddle or catch it.
I called out - you HAVE to go ! That wave has your name all over it !!!
She gave half a grin and the look in her eye changed to one of determination and - she caught it ! Made the drop and rode it till she was a speck on the beach.
I gave her a thumbs up chakra and she paddled back with a visible aura of energy and confidence - and a HUGE grin.
She went over the falls a couple times after - got caught inside as a big set came through - but I did not see that look questioning whether she should be out there return.
I have seen that happen so many times giving lessons.
Best feeling I have ever gotten from surfing.