Quote:
Originally Posted by JCF
The surf was very nice, 8 ft faces, clean , light offshore winds. Long overdue and I surfed until I couldn't get up off the board.
The fish was just amazing - should be getting the copy Larry Mabile is shaping for me this week.
The thing I keep thinking about though;
As I was paddling back out to the lineup I noticed a young girl who seemed a little bit out of her element in what she later called "mountainous" waves.
She was drifting close enough to a small pack of young males so as not to be all alone but it was obvious she did not want to get too near them (harmless though they seemed).
I positioned myself on the other side with her between and kept an eye on her.
She would paddle without a great deal of conviction at the occasional wave, way out of position, too far outside to catch anything.
She drifted in at one point and a medium size set approached - the largest wave of the set headed right for her - she was in the perfect spot, and she turned, but I could see in her eyes she was not so sure she really wanted to paddle or catch it.
I called out - you HAVE to go ! That wave has your name all over it !!!
She gave half a grin and the look in her eye changed to one of determination and - she caught it ! Made the drop and rode it till she was a speck on the beach.
I gave her a thumbs up chakra and she paddled back with a visible aura of energy and confidence - and a HUGE grin.
She went over the falls a couple times after - got caught inside as a big set came through - but I did not see that look questioning whether she should be out there return.
I have seen that happen so many times giving lessons.
Best feeling I have ever gotten from surfing.
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I wonder if that was Tweez....?
Seriously though....GREAT story JCF....a lot of stoke there as well as the kind of karma that represents the best of what our lives are supposed to be about.
Thanks for sharing and glad you had some good surf for your fish!
