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The Stick
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Someplace Safe?
Posts: 17,328
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I've waxed cars using a buffer since before I could drive. Back then there was only one car wax Simoniz by Johnsons wax. The environment, paints, and products have all changed a LOT since then.
Silver is easiest color to keep looking good with white coming in second. Red oxidizes the quickest, and dark colors like blue and black show swirls and imperfections the worst.
With my last two, and current car being a dark color I've discovered some things about swirl.
The dirt and scum you are cleaning off your car is dust, dirt, brake dust, tire rubber, and soot from automobile exhaust.
Never, ever, ever wash your car at a car wash, Never. Car washes must recycle their water. This leaves teeny tiny particles from all the scum people wash off their cars in the water leaving a film on your car. Even with soaps and cleaners that is very very very difficult to get off. It shows up as swirls and spiderwebbed scratch highlights after you wax the car.
Hand washing is better, BUT there are still a couple of problems. The tap water itself is hard, which means contaminants. Just wash your car and leave the water on the car. If it spots, those are the contaminants in the water that shows up as swirls and scratches. I have a water filter system on my house to reduce this as much as possible.
The other problem with hand washing is the soap used. Car wash soap is designed to leave wax on the car. If it is leaving wax on the car it is leaving most of the contaminants embedded in the wax. When you apply more wax it releases some of those embedded contaminants causing swirls and webbing scratches. That is why most waxes are cleaner waxes not just wax. Cleaner waxes help to try and trap some of those released contaminants, but it doesn't get them all.
What you have to do is minimize the damage from the contaminates as much as possible.
Washing the car...
Use filtered water when washing your car.
Us the soap made for the wax that was previously used. That soap should have both a mild wax cleaner and wax in it to help fill the minute scratches.
When washing use a boars hair brush instead of a rag or sheeps wool mitt. (those trap contaminates that will scratch).
Blow dry the car being sure to get the cracks that trap water and drip or run later.
Finish drying the car using a soft microfiber towel and quick detail cleaner to lessen the chance of any scratches from drying.
If you are plaining to wax the car replace the soap with Dawn. Dawn removes all wax from the paint.
Claybar the car using quick wax detail cleaner as the lubricant.
Re wash with dawn and blow dry the car.
Use a paint cleaner to get all the contaminate residue off the paint.
Re wash with Dawn to remove and stop the cleaner. If you don't do this the paint will oxidize faster because of the cleaner sealed under the polish or wax.
Apply your Polish and/or Wax.
Even after doing all this there well be some contaminates left that will eventually scratch and sometimes leave a fog on the paint. Every 5 years or so I have the paint professionally buffed out by a paint shop. You can't get the stuff they use over the counter, and I wouldn't want to try it myself as there is a fine line between cleaning, burning, and/or removing too much paint.
Tip on tires…
Use a good soap like simple green to clean the sidewalls using a brush. Then clean with WD-40. WD-40 is Kerosene and alcohol. The kerosene replaces the oils that dry out of the rubber and the alcohol helps to evaporate off the excess. Just spray it on a rag and wipe down the sidewalls. Let set a couple of hours, then go back and wipe down with a clean rag to remove any excess that might attract dirt.
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Richard aka "The Stick"
06 Cayenne S Titanium Edition
Last edited by RKDinOKC; 11-03-2013 at 12:23 PM..
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