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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Oklahoma
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Originally Posted by Robert Coats View Post
Generally speaking, standard, conventional-design AVR (automatic voltage regulation) generators provide reasonable power profiles for most household devices and appliances. The one big downside is they must run at 3,600 rpm to create the needed 60Hz power, regardless of the actual load. So this results in the engine running at or near wide-open-throttle, even if you are only powering a 'fridge or a few lights. Poor fuel economy, and reduced engine life, but better than no power. Most are open-frame and quite noisy.

Inverter-type generators are more sophisticated, and use an inverter to convert DC to AC, and this means they DON'T need to spin at 3,600 to make 60Hz, and can run the engine at speed to match the load. They offer much cleaner power profiles, a more precise sine wave, and a a good choice if running sensitive electronics. They burn less fuel, and are often fully enclosed with a much lower noise profile. Suitable for emergencies, jobsites, or use with an RV / camping. Significantly more expensive than a traditional generator.

Because nearly all portable generators that run on gasoline use a carburetor, it is a good idea to keep the fuel tank and carburetor bowl fully drained of all fuel if you expect the generator will not be used in < 30 days. Modern ethanol fuels quickly decay, and can plug up a carburetor in very short order. While fuel stabilizers help delay this, it eventually will happen if you store fuel in the tank or don't drain the carburetor bowl. Always use fresh gasoline for best results. If you must store some fuel, first buy some without any ethanol, store it in an good quality fuel can, fill up the can all the way, and use fuel stabilizer. Dump the fuel into your car's tank after 90 days and start over. Again, never allow fuel to be stored in the generator's tank or carb bowl > 30 days.

Always operate your generator outdoors, and never under a window or inside a garage. The exhaust creates contains carbon monoxide, which is odorless, colorless, and will kill you in minutes.

Finally, don't "backfeed" into a dryer outlet or the like. You run a tremendous risk of electrocution, fire, etc. You might be tempted to think, "Oh, I know what I'm doing!" and you may be right, but what will happen that one time you are out of town and the power goes out? Your wife or kid will try and "hook up" the generator just like they say daddy do it, and might or might not remember to switch off that main breaker, or understand the double-male suicide cord could have live, hot prongs of power. To be safe and legal, use a transfer switch ($100-$400) and have it installed by an licensed electrician. The switch can be configured to direct the generator's power to the outlets and devices you select, and completely and safely isolates the generator and utility company lines. If you don't want the extra cost, then just run some extension cords and power strips direct from the generator.

Caveat: I work for Honda Generators, but the preceding is my opinion alone.
Thanks for that explanation. It makes sense why the inverter type is more expensive.
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49 Year member of the Porsche Club of America
1985 911 Carrera; 2017 Macan
1986 El Camino with Fuel Injected 350 Crate Engine
My Motto: I will never be too old to have a happy childhood!
Old 12-06-2013, 06:33 AM
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