Some install details - I have left a lot of wires long on purpose, so I can be sure they are right. Next step is a lot of clean-up and better organization of wires and such. Having said that. Here is the overview of the install. I started with fuel only, using the Tbitz kit. I chose the "clean look" that cuts down the air box and opens up the engine compartment quite a bit. I found a lot of difficulty tuning and realized it was a mechanical issue - shot exhaust valves and guides. While the engine was out, I added 996 cams and a crank wheel for EDIS.
EDIS wiring is a challenge, two things to focus on; 1. Shielding sensor wires - TPS, VR sensor and PIP/SAW back to the MS unit. and 2. Getting the firing order right. In a happy coincidence, if you follow the EDIS chart here, the wiring is 1 - 2 -3 right across.
EDIS Pinout with notes
Coil Detail
Did I mention the wiring is a mess? I adapted the fuse panel a bit, adding a 6 position fuse panel with a common 12v source. I used a relay to that has a switching source that is on both cranking and running and then used a heavier lead from the starter to energize the panel. I use that to drive all the various ignition, fuel and O2 sensor stuff. I gave up on the rear defroster and no need to drive a CDI box anymore.
I used a BMW TPS that I recovered from a junkyard. It is a direct fit onto the Throttle shaft and has the same footprint as the throttle switch that is stock on an '80 SC. I sacrificed the switch to get the mount and used some aluminum tubing as a stand off. It bolts on using the existing threaded holes.
The Idle valve uses a manifold that DIY Autotune sells, it is designed to mate to a Jeep Idle Valve - the part numbers are on the DIY site. You will need to add 4 wires to your DB37 connector - all documented on the MS Extra site. I went a bit overkill on the tubing, but it does draw a lot of vacuum when its closed and weak tubing will collapse before the valve totally shuts, defeating the purpose of programming and IAC. I mounted the manifold to one of the aluminum supports for the fuel rail, could have also put it on the fire wall. One end goes into the intake, after the filter. The other end goes into the CSV air intake. This provides air around the throttle plate to provide a higher idle during warm up and allows you to sell your AAV, which should cover the cost of the IAC and manifold.
I wish had done more to document things along the way. I learned a ton about how MS works and really like the mix of modern reliability, drivability and more power in a car with all the character of an 80 SC. If stock HP is measured at the flywheel, I am up about 25 HP over stock and have a path to maybe 20 - 25 more with a cleaner intake and SSI's. In the meantime, I can drive to the airport in the am and not annoy my neighbors as much and I hope to also get better mpg, as long as I can keep my foot out of the happy pedal...