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You can do it in the car - you are just doing #1&4. The A/C should be OK. Take the top valve covers off and mount the dial gauge. I use a magnetic dial gauge holder - and bolt a steel plate (just bigger than the base of the block) to the cam cover studs. (You need to place it so the other rocker arms don't interfere/lift the plate) You will have a bit of stuffing around to get the gauge oriented right. Try and position the pointer tip of the gauge in line as much as possible with the travel of the rocker arm - so it is following directly the downward path of the rocker arm. You place the tip on top of the valve adjuster and try and avoid the adjuster slot - because it will often drop into the groove as it travels with the arm.
You then zero the dial with a turn or so pre load in the gauge - so it can record as it extends down. If that all makes sense. It will do 1+ a small bit of a revolution to get the correct timing.
But if you just want a quick check you can avoid all this via Andy's method. But if you go this track, you will be able to reset your valve timing anytime you want. Make sure the valve lash clearance is right before you do this if resetting from scratch.
Alan
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
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