Quote:
Originally Posted by gregwils
The exhaust studs have been in the heads nearly 30 years with thousands of heat cycles, they aren't going to be happy about leaving. I would use mapp gas, propane isn't hot enough. Heat them until they are cherry red. Hopefully, none will break. If they do, use a reverse bit if you need to drill. It's best to have a drill guide.
If you're doing the guides, I would wait until you pull the motor and do it as a single project. I did the same thing three years ago.
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Greg, Thanks for the points. I have the engine dropped and on the stand, I was rotating the engine doing the valve adjustment when the broken stud fell on the ground. Dont know if the stress from the stand may have cause a degraded stud to have finally failed. I dropped her like 1,2,3, after following PP procedures, only thing different I dropped with transmission attached.
About the heating procedures: evidently the threadlock is used on the lug and on the bottom threads. I plan to heat the lug hot enough to defeat the tread-lock and hopefully expand it at the same time for an easier release, leaving the studs in the block. Once I slide off the sleeves/heads to then heat the block to defeat the sealer and for the metal around the stud to expand releasing its grip. I would want to keep the stud as cold as possible so that it do not expand. Some show success in removing these studs with the remover I have coming in without any heat, but I am not taking any chances.
Maap gas!. I am going to research that now.. Thanks again..
John