Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig T
Two foot is he was lucky! Closer to 12" is my guess.
That's why I won't ride the Wedge anymore, not even on a sponge board. I was a regular there in my teens and early 20's, but over 50 year-old bones break when the Wedge pile-drives you into the sand. I have personally witnessed two bodysurfers coming out of there with broken necks.
I still go down to Newport to surf short boards with friends, but we're perfectly content between 56 Street and the river jetty's  If it get's to big, we head down to Lower Trestles. |
My left rotator cuff is in a permanent state of "no, you can't do that" due to Drainpipes at Zuma. Bounced off the bottom in a shore break barrel back in my late 40's.
Never rode the Wedge but Marine Street was a very similar break. Just not as crazy big, in part due to the outside reef that would go off when it got much over 6'. With that, a thick 5' shore break can have a big barrel and do a lot of body damage...