[Wayne 962]

1- On these particular issues, it's basically a matter of preference. When you are putting the engine together, it's important not to contaminate the engine case sealant (574) with any motor oil or any other debris (watch out for bristles from your acid brush). So, not using any oil on the o-rings is fine. The number eight o-ring doesn't have a tendency to leak very often on a new rebuild - the flywheel and pulley seals can suffer from scratches in the inside of the case. You can put Curil-T on the o-ring if you'd like for extra assurance. The oil pump seals are all internal to the engine and don't need any sealant, as they will not leak. I recommend the black silicone for the through-bolt o-rings because it blends in well with the case, and doesn't look sloppy.

2- People have had good luck and bad luck with 574. I would guess that 99% of the time, it's not the 574, but the case that has a scratch, or is slightly deformed. You can't just bolt together a 2.7 (for example) that has been warped and expect it to be leak-free. It must have the proper machine work done to it. I know many, many people who have had good luck with the 574 (including the factory). It's a matter of preference as to what you use, but I don't know any one who has used this Boxster stuff...

3- That doesn't sound right to me. Everyone I know (including the guys at Loctite that I spoke with) confirm that it only cures in metal-to-metal contact. Without looking at your case, I would guess that maybe the material used in that particular rebuild wasn't Loctite 574? Also, the 574 is really easy to get off, compared to the Dow Corning stuff.

4- I did have this argument with my technical editor. It doesn't really matter, but it's slightly easier if you drop the crank in first. It's a bit difficult to put the crank in , with the rods all lined up, *and* have it mesh properly with the intermediate shaft.

Sorry for the delay, didn't see this post until now...

-Wayne