Quote:
Originally Posted by kuehl
9 times out of 10 you can 'balance' the geometry of the blower wheel; the perpendicularity of the shaft hub to the wheel disk it is attached to; usually it becomes cocked over time or when someone bends is "accidentally". What you do is mount the wheel on the motor shaft, the motor remains fixed in its plastic motor plate. Level the plastic plate and take a dial indicator touching the wheel disk near its top outer circumference. Slowly rotate the blower wheel and locate the highest point of wobble (use a pencil), then gently bend down (a few inch pounds of force) on the blower wheel at this point. Again rotate the wheel and repeat the procedure until you get no more than .005" of total indicator movement. Be careful not to bend the hub too much as it is pressed & rolled into a hole in the top plate
You will not be able to easily correct the geometry, of say, an 'egg' shape, such if you dropped the blower wheel on the ground and distorted its round shape; you would need to eye ball that one or again use an indicator and rotate the wheel while it was affixed to straight shaft on v blocks.
Leave the weight clips where you found them. The early metal wheels were made by a Torrington Division, they used a dynamic wheel balancer alike what is used to balance a turbine; not cheap equipment.
|
TY for info CG. Will "drill out" motor & blower today and make blower true. If vibration still there, will check shaft. Reason to drill out... Teeth butt plastic motor plate on two sides. Rivets must go to get plate out.
__________________
Karl ~~~
Current: '80 Silver Targa w /'85 3.2. 964 cams, SSI, Dansk 2 in 1 out muf, custom fuel feed with spin on filter
Prior: '77 Copper 924. '73 Black 914. '74 White Carrera. '79 Silver, Black, Anthracite 930s.
|