Quote:
Originally Posted by kuehl
Karl,
If you have a 1970-1985 Behr Evaporator Box....
This "screw & bushing" oddity attached to your evap blower motor assembly. Strange.
I'd guess someone added this because the motor was slipping in the round plastic housing. Occasionally when we work on clients cars of this era (1970-1985) we come across a round plastic housing that is cracked or broken, however most are quick fixed using a simple hose clamp. I'd say someone went a different avenue in trying to fix an issue where the evap motor was slipping through the round plastic housing.
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Agreed on mod CG. Soon as screw in metal housing came out... that raised WTF flag. But, config is functional so I modified on with it.
Back into blower...
Given number of round trips I've made into plenum, can now remove blower housing from evap box in less than 30 seconds. "Quick eject" config has come in very handy. Below is look at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock measuring on hub side of blower. This side = on center.
Outer rim = off center. Adjustment done yesterday only moved blower slightly. Not surprising since hub cannot be moved much when blower's trapped in cage (as it was yesterday.) Rather than make adjustment with blower mounted to motor, am taking overcautious route... Have removed blower from motor and am holding it with drill bit. Then bending down on it lightly per CG. It goes back on center. TY Charlie.
Chalk is curious tool to test shaft's perpendicular with. Thought I had some stashed away from son's scribble-on-road days but nope. So, with motor on plate, plate clamped to work bench, and stationary caliper... am slowly turning shaft. Yeah, am guilty of stonehenging here with ass end of caliper but not going to get "smart tool" for this just yet. Shaft 'looks' good. To back up stonehenge caliper method, have turned AC on for a feel test. Motor running absent blower = damm smooth. Next is blower feel test. Impressive. Small adjustment just made has made big difference...
Vibration = gone. Now, everything goes back in place
once more... and it's into cabin to check vent noise...
Holly f***... cold & quiet together.
Next is... t-switch test under operating conditions. Before doing this, will reload 26 oz dry hose liquid charge. Reason: test t-switch with optimal charge. Since thread 2 has been blown up, here's explanation so some sense might be made of what's going on: Optimal performing charge is version 6.1. Other versions of 6 (2-4) were done with increased refrigerant weights (28, 30, 32 ozs.) as shown below. Above 26 ozs, pressures rose and vent temps did not progress down---they went up (so pressures are key here.) More, test versions 7 and 8 also followed. Test 7, I disregarded due to bungling it. A version of test 8 now runs in car. Working? Yes. Optimal? No. And so... reason for reload. You might be thinking, "Why bother now with winter coming on?" You're right. But, I'm in "AC mode" at moment so better to get everything done now so come spring... no need to return to unfinished business.
Note: 26 oz liquid injection started with dry hose so weight is not indicative of refrigerant actually in AC system---there is less than 26 ozs when dry hosing it as the final weight read on scale includes refrigerant then in hose.