Quote:
Originally Posted by earossi
Cleaning is pretty straight forward. Once you have the ISV in your hands, spray carb cleaner down the throat around the little vane valve. Your's is probably gooped up pretty badly with congealed oil and dirt. Technique is to spray the solvent down into the throat and then agitate the area with a small brush or tooth pick. You will continue to flush and shake the valve even after the valve appears clean. Used compresses air to blow out the vaned valve as well.
When you shake the valve do it vigorously. You are attempting to free up the valve which is frozen due to the gunk (technical term). Eventually, the valve will continue to "rattle". When the valve is fully cleaned, the vigorous shaking should produce a sound that is about the same sound you get when shaking a rattle can of paint. The paint can that has metal balls in the can to help mix up the paint (which is why they refer to these paint cans as "rattle cans"). It may take a half dozen solvent washes accompanied with vigorous shaking of the valve to get the ISV to begin rattling.
Finally, use compressed air to do the final cleaning of the valve before re-installing the ISV. This type of cleaning apparently restores most of the poorly operating ISV's out there.
Also, I have been advised that idle hunting is abnormal. It can be a lazy ISV as Bill V. suggests. So, clean the ISV first. If the hunting continues after you clean the ISV, then you should check for a vacuum leak in the myriad of vacuum lines installed on your engine.
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Extremely helpful, thank you. I'm going to try today.