[chrismorse]

I didn't do that for myself or any client, but it got the job done. Don't do it if you have even the slightest doubt about what you are doing.

For sure the safe way to go is the competently installed transfer switch and generator.

One relatively low cost way to get you through an outage is to spark up a generator, owned or rented, and bring in temporary power to your refrigerator and lights. This will require a good extension cord, at least 12 gage, (grounded -three prong), a similar quality "splitter" and a few extension cords to get things lit up.

The basic rule of electrical usage is that you need big enough wire to handle the current, or you are going to melt the wire. it can carry only so much current before it starts to get hot, melt, start a fire.

Stepping back a bit, you might want to size the generator for the maximum probable intended usage.

To do this, you need to add up the big loads first, like electrical heating, air conditioning, electrical stove, and water pump. If you have any other big electrical loads, like an electrical two post hoist or kiln that you run a lot, you need to add all up the likely watts of usage and multiply that wattage by a usage factor, likely 50% or less, depending on your situation.

Add to that 500-100 watts for general lighting and toothbrush recharging and you are set.

The more you want to run at full capacity, the more it will cost. Most folk could save a lot by just sizing the generator for "just getting by".

Once you start to get more rural or wanting to keep your twin post hoist always operational, the generating cost goes up a bit.

Ch**st don't forget to add the laundry or dishwasher wattage, or you may end up sleeping out in the garage under the hoist