[argiopeweb]

Swapping in a used head is cheaper than rebuilding one ($500-$700 last time I heard an estimate), and $2000 is really a worst case machining + WYIT cost. No need to scare people unnecessarily.

Agreed regarding everything else though. It's quite difficult (though not impossible, if you massacre the rear rear timing cover) to do the water pump without removing the crank pulley, and that's a job for a flywheel lock. Bruce Arnn of Arnnworx sells a very affordable one. Do yourself a favor and pick up his pin wrench while you're there. It's a bit pricey, but I was much happier doing this job with his hefty wrench than with the wimpy one I fabricated.

Fans are worth taking out, and, if you have to pull the crank pulley, they have to come out. Clearance on the radiator is exceptionally low when you put a gear puller in there, so it may be worth pulling the radiator as well if you don't want to bung it up. Also a good excuse to check its integrity/give it a good cleaning. YMMV.

Agreed with rollers & seals. Again, a bit pricey to do them all, but well worth the time and effort. Pulling everything apart twice is a pain.

Make sure the water pump mating surfaces are exceptionally clean when you put in the new gasket. I made the mistake earlier in the year of not properly cleaning mine and quickly developed a leak (necessitating doing it all over again). I now have aerograde Hylomar on both sides of the gasket to ensure I never have to do involuntarily do that job again (no pulley to go bad on mine), though there is a segment of the community that swears by dry gaskets. YMMV.

Don't forget to take detailed pictures of all steps. Minor details (like which side of the crank pulley faces the block, BTDT) can make big differences.

Feel free to PM if I can answer any questions. I've done it twice this year, so the details are still fresh in my mind.