the one I pulled out was just to the flange and leaking very slightly. I think what I used is the 4" threaded PVC cap you reference. exactly the diameter of the RMS, and the little edge seats it just past the edge of the block, then the threads on the cap stop it from going farther in. since it is a good match, did not think of using the old RMS as well. In the past I would use old wheel bearing races to help seat new ones. the friend from whom I rent the garage has a full range of such tools I can borrow, but they are at a different location. did not expect much trouble with the RMS or pilot bearing, so used my old standby.
and per LR's recommendation I used a very light coat of locktite 5900 around the outer edge of the block, and oiled the seal lip of the RMS and the crank before I installed. with the locktite, may not be good to try to seat deeper at this point.
so how deep do you seat the RMS? first one for me, and dont want to do it on THIS car again for a long time.
and after buggering the pilot bearing, using a small, flat piece of wood was another thought. the new one will go in tomorrow before I start installing the new clutch.
in both cases trying to tap them in straight, avoid getting them in unevenly and jamming. probably more of an issue/risk with the pilot bearing than the RMS.
here is another pic of the RMS zoomed in from a slightly different angle. look close and you can see the ~1mm inset, especially at the little notch at the lower left.
thanks for the feedback.
__________________
Bob Cox
78 930 clone project car.
87 924S resurrect at some point.
84 928S, Ruby Red linen/brown interior - sold

86 944 turbo my new DE/track car - sold